Discovering Kolsay Lake’s Beauty
From Saty to Kolsay’s Shores
In the heart of Kazakhstan, amidst the majestic Tian Shan Mountains, WildLens by Abrar began his day in Saty. This small tourist town serves as a gateway to the region’s stunning lakes. Having already visited Kaindy Lake, the plan was to reach Kolsay Lake before continuing on to Almaty.
Abrar had researched alternative routes to Almaty, seeking to avoid the main highway. The goal was to pass through mountain landscapes and lakes, following an off-road track with a couple of passes, aiming to reach Almaty by evening.
Departure from Saty was delayed due to heavy rain the previous day, which raised concerns about the condition of the lesser-known passes. The route had only been explored via Google Maps and satellite imagery, making the actual conditions uncertain.
The morning offered a clear contrast, with beautiful weather for riding. Saty’s village mosque, distinct with its tile work, stood out among the local architecture. As Abrar approached Kolsay Lake, he noted the park entrance, where a 500 charge covered admission and parking.
Managing Mass Tourism
Kolsay Lake, situated approximately 5 to 6 kilometers from the entrance, presented a stunning environment. Large restaurants and cafes dotted the area, indicating the growth of tourism. The surroundings featured high mountains, pine trees, and clear water, whose colors shifted with the sun’s reflection.
Tourism in the region has expanded, leading to new developments like luxury hotels and glamping facilities. Restrictions have also increased; previously, in 2022, camping directly by the lake was common without an entrance fee. Now, a more organized system is in place across tourist spots.
Despite the influx of visitors, Abrar praised the management of these sites. Clean toilets, cafes, restaurants, and well-maintained walking paths have been established. These amenities allow people of all ages and physical conditions to enjoy the lake’s beauty from various viewpoints, while keeping the area preserved.
Central Asian Costs
Kazakhstan’s prices, especially in tourist areas like Kolsay Lake, proved significantly higher than neighboring countries like Kyrgyzstan. A cappuccino and honey cake cost around $8.5 to $9, a stark difference from the $5 to $6 typical for similar items in Kyrgyzstan.
This presented a new consideration for managing travel expenses. In pricier countries, the strategy would be to see key sights efficiently and move on, spending more time in locations offering better value.
The Off-Road Challenge Towards Almaty
Navigating Mountain Paths
Leaving the main highway, Abrar proceeded through inner passages towards a village, with the off-road route ahead. The pleasant weather made for enjoyable riding, but recent heavy rainfall meant patches of water and loose stones along the path.
The route quickly became demanding. Beyond the current villages, the path ascended towards a pass at 3000 meters, an area with no further settlements. The motorcycle, affectionately named Rangeeli, proved challenging to control in the slippery mud, especially at speed.
The path led through various obstacles, including sections where the track was difficult to trace. A particularly challenging dip caused an unexpected fall, highlighting the treacherous conditions. Further ahead, the road was completely blocked.
Unexpected River Obstacle
Upon reaching the blockage, it became clear a van was stuck in the middle of a significant river crossing. This was the only major river crossing on the entire off-road path. Despite attempts to find an alternative, Abrar walked for over two kilometers but found no suitable place to cross.
With the time approaching 2:30 pm, waiting was not an option. Abrar had an important appointment in Almaty the following day for a Russian visa, making it crucial to reach the city before nightfall. The initial concern about high river water, which lacked information on the iOverlander app, had materialized.
Faced with an impassable crossing, the decision was made to turn back. Rangeeli was redirected towards the asphalt road, heading directly to Almaty, forgoing the scenic but ultimately blocked off-road route.
Reaching Almaty’s Urban Comforts
The journey concluded with arrival in Almaty, Kazakhstan’s largest city. The final 6 to 7 kilometers into the city were met with heavy traffic, taking 30 to 35 minutes to navigate. Exhausted from the day’s challenges, Abrar felt body aches and sought rest.
A clean, small room at a guesthouse provided comfort, complete with a hot water shower. Although a bit far from the city center, the accommodation offered a much-needed respite. Too tired to seek out a restaurant, Abrar ordered a pizza, which arrived cold but served its purpose for a hungry traveler.
