Motorcycle Journey Through Pakistan’s Thar Desert: From Hyderabad to Naukot Fort and Mithi

Embark on an unforgettable adventure through the heart of Pakistan’s Thar Desert, a land of ancient forts, vibrant cultures, and endless horizons. This journey begins in the historic city of Hyderabad, charting a course towards the fascinating border region of Nagar Parkar, with captivating stops at Naukot Fort and Mithi along the way.

Traveler Abrar, known for his immersive explorations, set out to discover the hidden gems and unique experiences that define this less-traveled part of Sindh. This ride promised both scenic beauty and cultural encounters, offering a deep dive into the desert’s soul.

Setting Off from Hyderabad

The day began bright and early in Hyderabad, marked by the warmth of local hospitality. After arriving the previous day, Abrar had the pleasure of a delicious homemade breakfast, lovingly prepared by the wife of his kind host, Kauser.

This heartwarming start fueled the anticipation for the journey ahead. Despite an early wake-up call and a desire for more rest, the road to Nagar Parkar called, promising an immersive exploration of the Thar region.

An Early Start and Unexpected Checks

With an estimated six-hour ride ahead to cover 350 kilometers, careful preparation was key. Before fully committing to the highway, a quick check of the motorcycle’s tire revealed some minor cracks, a reminder to always be vigilant on long rides.

The journey officially commenced on the Khairpur road, heading towards the Hyderabad bypass. Every departure felt like a fresh beginning, a new chapter unfolding on the open road.

Unearthing History at Naukot Fort

The first major point of interest on this desert expedition was the magnificent Naukot Fort, a historical marvel just a short ride off the main path. Constructed in 1814 by the formidable Talpur family, a Baluchi tribe, this fort stands as a testament to their reign from 1783 to 1843.

Known as the “Gateway to Thar,” Naukot Fort served as a crucial defense against the Rajputs. Its unique construction entirely of bricks, including the roofs, showcases remarkable architectural ingenuity for its time.

The Government of Pakistan’s preservation efforts in 2012, investing approximately 15 million rupees, have ensured the fort remains in excellent condition for visitors to admire. Wandering through its grounds offers a vivid connection to the past, allowing one to imagine the stories etched into its ancient walls.

Curiosity on the Road

Beyond the fort’s history, the local encounters proved equally memorable. Curious residents, particularly intrigued by the motorcycle, engaged in friendly conversations, asking about its origin, price, and even personal details.

Their innocent curiosity and warmth provided delightful breaks, offering a genuine glimpse into the lives of the people who call this region home. The journey was as much about these human connections as it was about the destinations.

A Glimpse into Mithi, the Heart of Thar

Continuing the journey, the road led into Mithi, the bustling capital of the Tharparkar district and the largest city in the region. Navigating the diverging roads required a moment of clarity, confirming the correct path to this vibrant desert hub.

Mithi immediately presented a fascinating contrast to the stark desert landscape, with surprisingly modern and fancy houses appearing amidst the arid surroundings. The city’s distinct character unfolded with every turn.

The Melting Pot of Mithi

One of Mithi’s most striking features is its demographic makeup, with approximately 80% of the population being Hindu. Despite this significant religious majority, the city boasts a remarkable record of religious tolerance, with Muslims and Hindus coexisting peacefully for generations.

The primary language spoken here is Dhatki, though Sindhi is also widely understood. Mithi also plays a role in national development, being a site for major China Pakistan Economic Corridor (CPEC) projects, notably coal mining, which occasionally led locals to associate visitors with this industry.

At the city’s highest point, Gadi Bhit, a small mountain offers a panoramic view of Mithi. This vantage point provides a perfect opportunity to absorb the city’s unique blend of tradition and modernity, set against the vast backdrop of the Thar Desert.

Desert Travel: The ‘Kaikra’

Beyond the well-maintained main roads, travel into the more remote villages of Thar relies on an ingenious local solution: the ‘Kaikra,’ or “crab.” These versatile off-road vehicles are essential for navigating the challenging sandy terrain where motorcycles struggle.

The ‘Kaikra’ often carries a full load of passengers, serving as the lifelines for villagers in areas where conventional transport is scarce. This demonstrates the resilience and adaptability of the people living in this unique environment, making the most of what is available.

The Road to Nagar Parkar: Anticipation and Obstacles

Leaving Mithi, the final stretch towards Nagar Parkar brought a change in road conditions. What had been smooth, easily allowing speeds of 120 km/h, turned into a bumpy, pitted path, necessitating a more cautious pace of around 50 km/h.

As the sun began its descent, painting the desert sky with hues of orange and purple, the urgency to reach Nagar Parkar before dark intensified. The natural beauty of the Thar sunset provided a breathtaking backdrop to the challenging ride.

Border Region Realities

Upon nearing Nagar Parkar, the presence of an army check post underscored the region’s sensitive border location. Here, standard security procedures meant handing over personal cameras, with mobile phones being the only permissible means of capturing moments.

Settling into the Rooplo Guest House, a Sindh government facility, offered a comfortable respite. With options for executive or standard rooms, it provided a necessary base from which to plan the next day’s explorations of Nagar Parkar’s renowned temples.

An Unfinished Chapter in Nagar Parkar

The primary goal for visiting Nagar Parkar was to explore its ancient temples, particularly those related to Jainism. Just 5 kilometers away in Budhisar village, a small, beautiful mosque stood alongside three Jain temples, reflecting the historical religious diversity of the area.

Though Jainism no longer has followers in this specific region, one temple has been converted for Hindu worship by the local Hindu population, while the other two remain under government care, open to visitors.

However, the journey to these historical sites faced an unexpected hurdle. At a Rangers’ check post just before entering Nagar district, visitors must present their identification for security clearance. What began as a routine check quickly turned into a two-hour wait, as permission to proceed remained elusive.

Despite persistent attempts to gain entry, the control room’s silence meant the door to Nagar Parkar’s heart remained closed. With reluctance and disappointment, Abrar made the difficult decision to turn back, unable to fulfill the planned exploration of the temples.

A Journey of Discovery and Resilience

This motorcycle journey through the Thar Desert, from Hyderabad to the borders of Nagar Parkar, was a rich tapestry of experiences. It offered glimpses into Pakistan’s diverse history at Naukot Fort, celebrated cultural harmony in Mithi, and showcased the unique adaptability of desert life with the ‘Kaikra’.

While the inability to explore Nagar Parkar’s ancient temples left a note of disappointment, the overall adventure was filled with invaluable insights, stunning landscapes, and warm interactions with the local populace. Every journey holds its own lessons, and this exploration of Thar was no exception, highlighting the unpredictable yet rewarding nature of travel.