The open road beckoned, a familiar call for any adventurous spirit, and for Abrar, the moment had finally arrived to leave the spiritual embrace of Karbala behind and set his sights on the bustling heart of Iraq: Baghdad. After three reflective nights in the holy city, the capital, a mere 130 kilometers away, promised new experiences and a fresh chapter in his expansive motorcycle journey.
Anticipation hung in the cool morning air. The journey was estimated at two and a half hours, with good roads ahead, but the ever-present possibility of checkpoints meant delays were always a factor. With a hotel already booked in Baghdad, Abrar hoped for a smooth day, praying for a journey blessed with good fortune.
Departing Sacred Karbala
Abrar prepared his trusty motorcycle, Rangeeli, outside Hotel Al-Qasar, its location conveniently close to Karbala’s revered shrine area. With a silent prayer for the journey ahead, he bid farewell to the city that had hosted him, pausing to pay homage to Imam Hussein (AS).
The initial kilometers passed quickly, the road stretching ahead clearly. However, a common challenge for independent travelers arose: a camera malfunction. Abrar recounted past frustrations of discovering hours of footage without audio or realizing the camera hadn’t recorded at all, a stark reminder of the unpredictable nature of documenting such a journey.
Despite the technical hiccup, the spirit of the adventure remained. The previous night had brought an unexpected chill, dropping to around 4 degrees Celsius. Despite the cold, the sheer effort of packing had made him sweat, only for the biting air to remind him of the need for an extra layer once on the road.
On the Road to Baghdad
As the journey progressed, a striking sight emerged – a beautiful university, specifically a Women’s University, a testament to the country’s dedication to education. Soon after, the urban landscape gave way to the open road, signaling the move beyond Karbala’s immediate vicinity.
The presence of security was immediately noticeable. Numerous large army checkpoints, complete with armed guards and snipers, lined the route. These security units, often substantial in size, suggested the area’s sensitivity and the importance of those frequently traveling through.
A Brief Stop for Rangeeli
Despite Rangeeli’s excellent performance, a quick glance at the fuel gauge revealed a need for a top-up. Spotting a petrol pump, Abrar pulled over. The attendant, recognizing Abrar’s origins, offered a warm “Full Pakistan!” The fuel was remarkably affordable, costing only 60 Pakistani rupees for about 8-9 liters, a pleasant surprise for a long-distance traveler.
Back on the road, Abrar’s excitement grew. He passed alongside a flowing river, which he was fairly certain was the legendary Euphrates, a historical waterway he had only ever read about. The water appeared pristine, reflecting the clear sky above.
Tea and a Mysterious Monument
The journey brought Abrar through Al-Iskandria, roughly 60 kilometers from Baghdad. He noted a peculiar sight that had appeared in many cities he’d passed: a giant teapot monument. While its primary function as a symbol for tea was clear, Abrar wondered about its deeper cultural significance or the story behind such a prominent display.
Feeling the chill from the ride, a tea stall in the main bazaar of a city area proved irresistible. He ordered a special tea, served from a dedicated kitchen section. Abrar, mindful of his health, requested less sugar, finding the local brew incredibly sweet. This interaction, though brief, highlighted the need to learn more Arabic for better communication with the friendly locals.
Entering Baghdad: Checkpoints and Curfew
As Baghdad drew nearer, crucial information came to light: a motorcycle curfew would be enforced in the capital at 6 PM. This unexpected detail meant Abrar needed to pick up his pace, abandoning his earlier plan to simply immerse himself in the leisurely ride.
The road was punctuated by frequent checkpoints. Some, to Abrar’s relief, allowed him to pass through without extensive stops. Others, particularly larger ones, involved more thorough inspections. At one such stop, a hot-headed officer, speaking rapid Arabic, made the process challenging until another officer, who could read Abrar’s passport, intervened. Despite the delays, Abrar found the Iraqi authorities generally friendly, often even offering water after an inspection.
The sheer number of checkpoints, sometimes featuring canine units for luggage checks, significantly impacted travel time, turning what should have been a quick 30-kilometer stretch into a lengthy undertaking. Yet, Abrar remained positive, sensing the vibrant energy of Baghdad as city lights began to appear on the horizon.
A First Glimpse of the Capital
The final approach to Baghdad was a flurry of activity. Signs for Baghdad Airport confirmed his arrival, and the density of traffic increased dramatically. At the main Baghdad checkpoint, armed guards directed vehicles, and Abrar, ever the curious traveler, passed through with a friendly greeting, even encountering a “Pakistani German” at one post.
Navigating the city’s inner roads presented new challenges. Iraqi drivers, in Abrar’s experience, often did not yield, requiring constant vigilance. Despite the hectic flow, there was a palpable excitement. Abrar noted the “old city vibes” as he passed through what felt like an older district, complete with a bustling cloth market.
Settling into Oscar Hotel
Finally, after an exhausting day of riding, checkpoints, and city navigation, Abrar reached Oscar Hotel. Finding a suitable parking spot for Rangeeli amid the crowded pathways in front of the hotel proved to be the last hurdle of the day. Inside, a double-bed room awaited him – spacious and clean, though he noted the absence of towels, a minor detail easily rectified with a call to room service.
The room came at a reasonable price: 55,000 Iraqi Dinars, which translated to approximately $30 USD or 5,500 Pakistani Rupees. Exhaustion, a natural companion after such an eventful day, meant immediate exploration was off the table. Abrar looked forward to a shower and a brief rest before heading out to truly experience Baghdad.
His first day traveling into Baghdad was a rich tapestry of cultural encounters, security protocols, and personal reflections. For Abrar, this arrival marked not just a destination, but the beginning of an exciting exploration of a city he had long dreamed of visiting.
