Motorcycle Adventure to Taobat: Exploring Kashmir’s Remote Neelum Valley

Embark on an unforgettable journey through the heart of Pakistan’s breathtaking Neelum Valley, where every turn reveals stunning landscapes and a true test of grit. Travel blogger Abrar recently navigated the challenging terrain to Taobat, the last Pakistani village nestled along the Line of Control. This isn’t just a trip; it’s an immersive experience into the wild beauty and vibrant culture of Kashmir.

Setting Out from Kel

The adventure began in Kel, a picturesque town serving as a gateway to the region’s more remote areas. After returning from a previous exploration of Arang Kel, Abrar meticulously prepared his motorcycle.

With rain in the forecast, securing his main camera bag with a protective cover was a priority. The day’s primary mission, beyond reaching Taobat, was to acquire a local SCO SIM card, a crucial piece of equipment for staying connected in these distant lands.

Taobat lay approximately 50 kilometers ahead, a distance Abrar estimated would take three to four hours to cover, factoring in potential breaks to soak in the incredible scenery. His plan was to spend the night in Taobat, whether camping under the stars or finding a local guesthouse.

Before hitting the road, a warm cup of tea provided a moment of calm. With a traditional prayer for a safe and enjoyable journey, Abrar set off towards the unknown, accompanied by a local friend who would assist with the SIM card quest.

Navigating the Rugged Path to Taobat

Securing Connectivity and Facing Challenges

The first stop was Kel’s local market, where finding parking for the motorcycle was surprisingly easy and affordable at just 100 rupees for overnight security. It was here, in the bustling market, that Abrar successfully acquired an SCO SIM card, thanks to the kind assistance of Mr. Khurshid, an army officer. This essential connection meant the journey to Taobat could truly begin.

Leaving the market, Abrar pondered the condition of the road ahead. While large buses hinted at a manageable path, he had also heard whispers of a demanding “jeep track.” The reality soon unfolded.

Confronting the “Jeep Track”

The road quickly transformed, living up to its reputation as a true jeep track. A challenging section of dust and uneven terrain made for a tough ride. Abrar noted how this dusty path could become significantly more difficult, even treacherous, with rain, turning into thick mud.

The journey included the day’s first water crossing, where the continuous banging of the front wheel highlighted the strain on the motorcycle’s suspension. Another formidable obstacle soon appeared: a major landslide.

The road was closed as workers cleared the section above, posing a danger of falling rocks. Abrar arrived about 15 minutes after the closure, around 2:00 PM, and faced a wait that stretched for hours. He considered camping by the riverside if the road remained closed until evening, rather than risking a nighttime ride on such unpredictable terrain.

After an hour and a half, a “powerful personality” arrived, attempting to expedite the road clearing. By 5:00 PM, an hour after this intervention, rain began to fall heavily. The road became dangerously slippery, turning the ride into a precarious balance act, often requiring both feet on the ground.

With the rain intensifying, Abrar pulled over to change into more appropriate gear. Despite the challenging conditions and the slow progress through the mud, his determination to reach Taobat remained unwavering.

Taobat: The Last Pakistani Village

Arrival in the Neelum Valley’s Frontier

As dusk approached, Abrar reached a small, breathtaking village. Confirming with locals, he learned he had passed Janvi and was now in the vicinity of Taobat. The village, bathed in the soft hues of a sunset hidden behind clouds over the mountains, offered a stunning welcome.

Finding a room for the night, Abrar settled in, ready to experience the tranquility of this remote outpost.

Experiencing Taobat’s Charm

The next morning, Abrar rose early, hoping to capture the renowned sunrise over Taobat’s cloud-kissed mountains. While heavy clouds from yesterday’s rain obscured the full spectacle, the clearing weather still offered magnificent views of the valley.

Taobat, with a population of approximately 700, stands as the northernmost Pakistani village in the Neelum Valley. It’s the point where the Neelum River enters Pakistan and is dotted with Pakistan Army checkposts, highlighting its strategic location near the Line of Control.

Abrar sought permission to fly his drone, a process that required approval from higher-ranking officers at a checkpost about 5 kilometers away. The villagers themselves were incredibly friendly, greeting him with warm smiles wherever he went. After enjoying a simple breakfast, Abrar paid his bill, which was remarkably economical: 1500 rupees for the room and 150 rupees for food. A young boy, whose father served in the army, managed the guesthouse, spending his time there while schools were closed due to the pandemic.

Journey Back to Kel

With Taobat’s charm still fresh in his mind, Abrar began his return journey to Kel. Leaving early was a strategic decision to avoid any potential road closures that might occur from ongoing repair work, a lesson learned from the previous day’s long wait.

The weather had significantly improved, and the previously muddy roads were now quickly drying, making for a much smoother ride. The improved conditions allowed Abrar to take drone shots by the riverside, having secured the necessary permissions for areas away from the Line of Control.

However, the journey was not without its minor hitches. Abrar encountered an issue with his GoPro’s external microphone. Despite troubleshooting efforts, it remained unresponsive, prompting him to plan a more thorough investigation once back in Kel, as replacements were unavailable in such a remote region.

Arriving back in Kel well before dark, Abrar felt the day’s exhaustion. Though he had initially planned to continue to Shantar Valley, a three to three-and-a-half-hour ride away, he wisely decided to spend the night in Kel. After checking into a hotel, he took a moment to capture the stunning sunset by the riverside, a perfect way to refresh and reflect on his extraordinary journey.

A Memorable Ride Through Neelum Valley

Abrar’s motorcycle tour to Taobat was a true testament to the spirit of adventure, navigating challenging off-road sections and embracing the unexpected. This journey through the Neelum Valley unveiled the raw beauty of Kashmir and the resilient spirit of its people. From the arduous jeep tracks to the serene moments by the Neelum River, every part of this expedition was a unique and enriching experience.

The stunning landscapes and the warmth of the locals left an indelible mark. If you’re seeking a unique and adventurous travel experience, the Neelum Valley, leading to the remote village of Taobat, promises an unforgettable exploration.