Navigating the Unexpected: A Motorcycle Adventure from Victoria Falls to Botswana’s Kasane

After an awe-inspiring visit to Victoria Falls, the majestic natural wonder straddling Zimbabwe and Zambia, a new leg of my African motorcycle journey was set to begin. WildLens by Abrar, known for his intrepid overland explorations, recently wrapped up a memorable stay admiring the falls and prepared for the next chapter.

Originally, the plan was to bypass Botswana entirely and head straight to Mozambique from Zimbabwe. However, the realities of the road led to a swift change of itinerary. The condition of roads within Zimbabwe proved challenging, prompting a detour to a country Abrar had previously explored: Botswana.

With the Zimbabwe-Botswana border a mere 75 kilometers away, the decision was made to cross into Botswana that very day, with the vibrant town of Kasane as the immediate destination. This unexpected pivot promised new experiences and sights before the eventual ride into South Africa.

Farewell to Victoria Falls: A Tourist Hub

Victoria Falls itself, though small, is undeniably a tourist magnet. Abrar noted a higher concentration of international visitors on the Zimbabwe side compared to Zambia, indicating its popularity. Fortunately, the roads leading out of this bustling area towards the border were well-maintained, a welcome relief for the journey ahead.

This part of Zimbabwe contrasts sharply with other routes, like those towards Bulawayo, Harare, or the Mozambican border, where road conditions are significantly poorer. With the border closing at 8 PM and the clock showing 5 PM, there was just enough time for the estimated 1 to 1.5-hour ride.

A Nerve-Wracking Ride Through the Wild

The journey from Victoria Falls to the border was a test of nerves. The navigation system indicated a 51-minute ride, suggesting proximity, but an unexpected issue arose with the motorcycle. An engine light illuminated, and the voltage meter displayed an unusually low reading of around 11, instead of the normal 14.3.

This stretch of road was utterly deserted, bordered by a national park teeming with wild animals. With no mobile signal and 53 kilometers still to the border, the thought of the bike breaking down was a significant concern. Abrar decided against turning off the engine, fearing it might not restart.

Despite the anxiety, the motorcycle held up, a huge relief upon finally reaching the border. The road was quiet, with only a handful of vehicles encountered, mainly trucks. The scenery was beautiful, yet the constant worry overshadowed full appreciation of the surroundings.

An Unusually Smooth Border Crossing

Arriving at the Zimbabwe side of the border presented an interesting observation: it was exceptionally quiet and seemed primarily designed for tourists entering Victoria Falls from Botswana. Unlike many other crossings, there were no villages or bustling activities right at the border post.

The process itself was remarkably swift. After navigating a quick query about the immigration office, Abrar was through Zimbabwe customs and immigration in a mere 10 minutes. The officials were efficient, processing everything in under five minutes each.

Stepping into Botswana: A Land of Contrasts

Crossing into Botswana immediately showcased a noticeable difference in infrastructure. The roads improved, and a beautifully constructed border facility greeted travelers. Botswana’s reputation as a relatively affluent nation, fueled by its diamond mines, was evident.

A crucial step at the Botswana border involved disinfecting shoes, a measure reminiscent of New Zealand’s biosecurity protocols, though here travelers perform the task themselves. This meticulousness reflects the country’s commitment to preserving its natural environment.

While clearing the motorcycle, an unexpected hiccup occurred. The required road tax, carbon tax, and insurance amounted to 470 Pula. Without local currency, Abrar attempted to pay with US dollars, which were not accepted. A credit card payment was processed, but the system didn’t register the transaction, even though the amount was deducted from his account.

Despite the technical issue, the border officials were exceptionally understanding and helpful. They issued a paper document, allowing Abrar to proceed, with a promise to settle the payment later if the original transaction remained unconfirmed. Their professionalism and trust were greatly appreciated, turning a potential headache into a testament to their integrity.

Arrival in Kasane: Wildlife and Urban Comforts

With the border formalities complete, the 10 to 11-kilometer ride to Kasane began. Even before reaching the town, wildlife sightings were abundant, with warthogs and baboons freely roaming near the roadside. This proximity of wilderness to urban areas is a unique feature of Botswana.

Kasane itself quickly revealed Botswana’s development. Good roads, a modern Toyota showroom, and well-maintained office buildings were prominent, hinting at the country’s economic prosperity. Despite the urban amenities, parts of the town retained a natural, almost jungle-like feel, especially away from the main market.

A Night’s Rest and a Culinary Quest

Abrar found accommodation at Chiloto Guest House, a small but clean room costing around $32-33 USD. Despite its compact size, the air-conditioned room offered a comfortable respite after the day’s journey and the lingering worry about the motorcycle, which fortunately, seemed to have resolved its issues for now.

As evening settled, the search for dinner began. Kasane proved to be a quiet town after 8 PM, with most establishments closed. After a 10-minute walk through the quiet streets, a stroke of luck led to the only open restaurant in town: an Indian eatery.

Dinner consisted of Paneer Karahi and Naan. The naan, while tasty, leaned more towards a tandoori roti in appearance. The Paneer Karahi, reminiscent of dishes enjoyed in India, offered a satisfying meal, not overly spicy, for around $10-11 USD. It was a pleasant end to a day filled with unforeseen challenges and delightful discoveries.

This unexpected detour into Botswana quickly proved to be a rewarding one, showcasing the country’s unique blend of wilderness, development, and warm hospitality. The adventure continues, with new plans to unfold on the road ahead.