Discovering Qeshm Island: A Motorcycle Journey Through Iran’s Persian Gulf
After a few days of much-needed rest and recovery in Bandar Abbas, the vibrant port city on Iran’s southern coast, the call of adventure beckoned once more. Abrar, eager to continue his travels, was looking forward to exploring Qeshm Island, a renowned jewel of the Persian Gulf.
My hand, injured in a recent road accident, was finally feeling better, allowing for easier movement. While lifting heavy items was still out of the question, the prospect of riding “Rangeeli,” my trusty motorcycle, filled me with renewed energy. Bandar Abbas had proven to be a comforting stop, a place where delicious food and a centrally located hotel, Hotel Atilier, made relaxation effortless.
Bandar Abbas: A Port City’s Charm and Departure Point
Finding Comfort in Bandar Abbas
My hotel in Bandar Abbas was a sanctuary during recovery. Located right in the city center, it offered easy access to amenities and delicious meals, meaning I rarely had to venture far. Short walks around the area were enough to stretch my legs without overexerting my healing hand.
The city center itself bustled with life. Local vendors spread sheets on the ground every evening, offering everything from shoes and clothes to handmade bags and carpets. It was also a convenient place to exchange currency. The local ‘sarafi,’ or money exchange, provided excellent rates, making transactions smooth and comfortable.
Gateway to the Persian Gulf Islands
Bandar Abbas holds significant importance, known for its strategic location as the largest port in Iran and a key hub for the Iranian Navy controlling the Persian Gulf. From here, several islands beckon, with Qeshm and Hormuz being the most famous. My primary goal was to visit Qeshm, an island celebrated for its unique natural beauty and vibrant culture.
The city’s proximity to places like Dubai also makes it a crucial transit point. Before the pandemic, ferry services connected Bandar Abbas directly to Dubai and Sharjah, allowing travelers to transport vehicles. While personal passenger services are currently suspended, the potential for future connections remains, highlighting the region’s connectivity.
Journey to Qeshm: Aboard the Ferry with Rangeeli
Navigating the Port and Securing Passage
The journey to Qeshm Island began with a short ride to the port, a quick five to seven-minute trip from my hotel. Navigating the port area, especially with a motorcycle and a foreign passport, often requires a bit of explanation. The sight of a Pakistani face with a German passport invariably sparks curiosity among officials.
After a brief conversation and securing a ticket for a modest 125,000 tomans (roughly 3-4 US dollars), I was initially told motorcycles weren’t allowed. Thankfully, a kind official intervened, and soon, “Rangeeli” was cleared for passage to Gate #8. The benefit of traveling by motorcycle meant no long queues, allowing me to proceed directly.
A Unique Ferry Experience
The ferry ride to Qeshm Island promised an approximate duration of one hour and fifteen minutes. Before boarding, police officials conducted thorough passport checks, a standard procedure across Iran, ensuring all legalities are in order, especially for foreign visitors.
This was “Rangeeli’s” inaugural ferry ride, a memorable moment. Throughout the journey, I made sure to protect my healing hand, carefully handling my gloves. Upon arrival in Qeshm, further police checks on the motorcycle’s documents, including the Carnet, were essential. It’s always crucial to have all necessary paperwork readily accessible to avoid any complications.
Exploring Qeshm Island: A Gem of the Persian Gulf
Strategic Location and Rich History
Qeshm is far from a tiny island; it stretches for nearly 200 kilometers. Its significance lies not only in its natural beauty but also its strategic location. The Iranian government has designated these islands as free trade zones to boost local business, a plan that appears to be thriving. Tourism and trade flourish hand-in-hand.
The island’s history is rich and complex, having been under the control of various powers throughout the centuries. The Portuguese were among the first Europeans to seize Bandar Abbas and these islands in the 15th or 16th century, followed by the Dutch and the British. It even saw a period under Omani rule, demonstrating its enduring importance in the Persian Gulf before eventually returning to Iranian control.
Connectivity and Conveniences
One pleasant surprise on Qeshm Island, and indeed across much of Iran, is the excellent 4G LTE internet service. Covering 90-95% of the areas I’ve traveled, providers like Iran Cell and Hamrah e Aval offer reliable connectivity. A 70 GB data package for just 7 dollars made it easy to stay connected and even upload content seamlessly, a significant improvement from earlier travel experiences.
The island is well-developed, with a main highway that circles the entire perimeter, making travel smooth. It’s truly a place that defies expectations, offering modern conveniences amidst stunning natural landscapes.
Qeshm’s Natural Wonders
Kharbas Caves: An Unexpected Closure
Our first planned stop was the Kharbas Caves, located about 15 kilometers from the ferry port. These caves, nestled within a large mound, are a well-known attraction. However, upon arrival, the premises were unexpectedly closed, possibly for renovation or due to a temporary issue, a small disappointment on an otherwise promising day.
The Majestic Valley of Stars
Next, we headed a couple of kilometers inland to the “Valley of Stars,” a place with glowing reviews. The ride along the coastal road, with wide stretches of asphalt and stunning beaches backed by tiny mountains, was enjoyable in itself.
The Valley of Stars is an extraordinary geological wonder. These natural rock formations, carved over millennia by erosion from rainwater, create a truly surreal landscape. A well-maintained path leads tourists through the valley, offering breathtaking views from various vantage points. From a higher point, I captured unique aerial perspectives of the sprawling, alien-like terrain.
Despite the midday heat, the sheer majesty of the place was captivating, reminiscent of ancient, otherworldly landscapes. The colors of the rocks shift dramatically with the changing light, promising even more mesmerizing views as the sun begins to set.
A Salt Cave Revelation
Our journey continued to a large salt cave, reputed to be among the world’s largest. Inside, the darkness was profound, requiring a light source to navigate. The proximity to the sea meant seawater had seeped in, forming intricate salt formations.
While photographs often enhance the vibrancy, I found the cave more beautiful from the outside, appreciating the contrast between the red rock and the white salt formations. Personally, I recalled the Khewra Salt Mines as even more stunning, but this cave still offered a unique experience.
Culinary Delights and Practical Travel Tips
Savoring Qeshm’s Flavors
As evening approached, the need for a good meal became apparent. We discovered a fantastic seafood restaurant, where I promptly ordered the best fish item on the menu. The dish arrived with a delicious sauce, possibly made with spinach or a similar vegetable, enhancing the fresh fish perfectly.
The meal was not only incredibly tasty but also remarkably affordable, costing less than four dollars. This affordability of good food is a common and delightful aspect of traveling in Iran.
Navigating Return and Future Plans
The return journey from Qeshm to the mainland typically involves taking a ferry from the island’s other side to Bandar Pol, a shorter 10-minute crossing. From Bandar Pol, it’s about an hour’s ride back to Bandar Abbas. This route is popular for transporting vehicles to and from the island.
As the sun began to set, I decided against exploring further off-road routes to avoid traveling in the dark, especially in areas with minimal traffic. Plugging in my mobile for charging, I took a better-paved road back towards the port, a route likely preferred by most tourists.
My exploration of Qeshm Island was an unforgettable experience, full of natural beauty and cultural insights. The motorcycle, “Rangeeli,” performed wonderfully, making every ride enjoyable and adding an element of freedom to the adventure. Tomorrow, a new chapter begins as I prepare to head to Shiraz, a city I have long dreamt of visiting.
