Trekking Tanzania’s Wild Heart: Gombe National Park Chimpanzee Safari
There are some destinations that call to the adventurous spirit, places so remote and wild they promise an experience unlike any other. Gombe National Park in Tanzania is one such place, famous worldwide as a sanctuary for chimpanzees. Our journey began with an early start in Kigoma, Tanzania, as traveler Abrar prepared to embark on an unforgettable day trip across the vast waters of Lake Tanganyika.
Navigating the Magnificent Lake Tanganyika
The day began at 5:30 AM, with an embarkation by 6:30 AM from the tranquil shores of Lake Tanganyika. A two-hour boat ride lay ahead, promising passage to the remote Gombe National Park. The lake, initially calm, soon revealed its immense power, with large waves causing the boat to sway significantly. When winds pick up, boat services on the lake can even be suspended, a testament to its imposing nature.
Lake Tanganyika is not just vast; it’s a geographic marvel. It holds the distinction of being the second deepest and second largest freshwater lake in the world, surpassed only by Lake Baikal in Russia. Stretching an incredible length, it touches the borders of Congo, Burundi, Tanzania, and Zambia, making it one of the longest lakes globally. Its waters are a vital lifeline for countless villages dotted along its lush, green cliffs, many of which rely on ferries and boats for transport to and from Kigoma.
During the early morning hours, the lake teems with activity, with numerous fishermen casting their nets against the backdrop of a rising sun. As the boat drew closer to Gombe, the dense forests of the national park stood in stark contrast to the nearby villages, where land had been cleared for agriculture.
Arrival and Preparation at Gombe
After a two-hour journey across the lake, the boat arrived at Gombe National Park. The immediate sensation upon arrival was an immersive symphony of jungle sounds mingling with the gentle lapping of the lake. It’s a truly wonderful place, offering a deep connection with nature.
Abrar was pleasantly surprised to learn that the park management had arranged breakfast, a welcome treat after the early start and boat ride. The park’s accommodations, though not utilized by Abrar for this day trip, were noted for their beauty and neatness. Tents, well-maintained and offering splendid lake views, were available for approximately 59 USD each. The restaurant, where breakfast was served, provided a fulfilling spread of tea, coffee, omelet, bread, pineapple, and honey—essential fuel for the upcoming chimpanzee safari.
The Quest for Chimpanzees
With breakfast complete, the chimpanzee trekking adventure began. The total cost for this adventure was about 143 USD, covering a 100 USD park entrance fee, a 20 USD guide fee, and an additional 18% VAT. Unlike some other safari experiences, Gombe employs a more direct tracking method. While trekkers in different parts of the park attempt to locate chimpanzees, the main group starts hiking in hopes of meeting them.
Gombe National Park is home to approximately 68 chimpanzees, with the particular group often visited by tourists comprising 46 members. These fascinating primates live together but scatter throughout the day in search of food. Unlike gorillas, which primarily consume leaves and grass, chimpanzees have a more diverse diet, hunting other monkeys and baboons, and even foraging for insects. Witnessing them in their natural habitat, possibly even during a meal, was a highly anticipated part of the experience.
A Challenging Hike and a Stunning Waterfall
The hike itself proved to be quite demanding. Approximately 45 minutes to an hour into the trek, the group encountered a beautiful 25-meter waterfall. The guide explained that a natural spring behind the falls supplies clean, pure water, which is even used in the lodge for staff consumption, though not offered to guests.
Beyond the waterfall, the terrain became increasingly challenging. The trail ascended steeply up the mountain, made treacherous by slippery tracks, stones, and tree branches, all moistened by the pervasive water in the area. This was a true test of endurance, requiring significant effort and determination.
The Reward: Spotting Wild Chimpanzees
After a demanding 90-minute ascent post-waterfall, and with the chimpanzees proving elusive, a message came over the radio: the chimpanzees had been spotted near the lake, close to where the journey began. This meant a return trek down the cliff. Despite the initial disappointment and the physically draining journey, the perseverance paid off.
Finally, two chimpanzees were spotted! They were relaxed, eventually starting to move, allowing the group to follow at a respectful distance. The guide shared intriguing facts about chimpanzee society: a female chimpanzee’s pregnancy lasts eight months and two weeks, with a five-year gap between consecutive births, contributing to their relatively small numbers. Leadership among chimpanzees is also fascinating, determined by strength, democratic sharing of resources, or inherited status – surprisingly similar to human dynamics.
Following the two male chimpanzees along the lakeside was a privilege, a close-up glimpse into their natural behavior before they eventually retreated into the dense canopy of trees.
Reflecting on a Wild Day
The long and strenuous day concluded back at the park entrance, where lunch awaited at the same restaurant as breakfast. A well-deserved meal of chicken, rice, salad, and a refreshing pineapple and avocado juice provided much-needed energy after the extended hike. While Abrar had hoped to see a larger group of chimpanzees, such as the gorilla and monkey families encountered on previous safaris, the unpredictable nature of wildlife encounters in the wild always means managing expectations. Sometimes you see a large group, sometimes just a few – it’s all part of the authentic safari experience.
The practicalities of the trip were streamlined with the help of Imran, a Pakistani Punjabi born in Kigoma, whose grandfather settled there in the previous century. Imran assisted with booking the boat trip and coordinating various aspects, as the local boat operators primarily speak Swahili. The total cost for the day’s adventure, including the 170 USD boat trip, 140 USD for park entrance and guide, 15 USD for food, and a 35 USD tip, amounted to approximately 350 USD to witness these magnificent two chimpanzees in their natural habitat.
As the sun dipped below the horizon, painting the sky in vibrant hues, it marked the end of a remarkable day. Returning to Kigoma around 9 PM, Abrar reflected on the profound beauty of Lake Tanganyika and the incredible nature of Gombe National Park. While Gombe offers an amazing wild experience, especially if one could spend a night there amidst the lake and forest, for future primate safaris, Abrar noted that Uganda might offer a more streamlined and perhaps more economical experience, given its well-established tourism infrastructure for gorillas and red monkeys.
Despite the challenges and high costs, the journey to Gombe National Park to trek for chimpanzees was an unforgettable immersion into Tanzania’s wild heart, a testament to the raw, untamed beauty of East Africa.
